Up North & Personal

WHY GO UP north? Well, I have a couple of reasons.

        Despite the many goings and returnings, it is always fun and exciting to visit the city of Vigan, my beloved hometown.

        And even if it was my first time to explore Pangasinan recently, it is clear that the province is worth going back to.

        Vigan in February was sun-drenched yet was cool in the evening, giving us the perfect weather to go around the city and cap our tour with an empanada dinner in an open eatery located in Plaza Burgos. Us included my moonlighting friends, Apple, Charity and Lea, who all fell in love with the place. Even before we could go back to Manila, they were already planning of coming back.

      Pangasinan during the long Holy Week provided a convenient summer getaway for the family. Brother-in-law Sonny served as our tour guide who is familiar with the place as he is based there at the moment as consultant for the Coke company. No doubt, going around the area and visiting the right places, especially for our Visita Iglesia and where to eat and buy those pasalubong, was a breeze. 

A Day In Vigan

      The trip to Vigan early this year was a spur-of-the-moment thing. Unlike my previous trips, this one was done using the public transportation – going there and back to Manila and going around the vintage city. It was fun but it was also challenging … 


        Arriving in Vigan, A, C, L  and I dropped by St. Paul’s Cathedral. Personally, I said a short prayer for a safe trip and this another opportunity to visit the city. As always, this church never fails to amaze me, somehow being in it gives me the feeling that God is in the house and closely listening to my prayers. 

 

VIGAN CATHEDRAL. This is always a must-visit

place for me – not in terms of tourism but

to particularly thank the Heavenly Father for all

the blessings He continues to give me and my family,

including the chance to travel.

Above shows the church’s famous Baroque

architecture and its accompanying bell tower.

 Below shows the inside of the church

with its altar, lofts and a unique pulpit.

 

         
         Moving on and going like a regular tourist, we hired a kalesa to bring us to the places we want to visit. Our first stop was the Bell Tower in Bantay with the St. Augustine Church nearby. I have posed in this tower in all stages of my life – as a small girl, a teenager, a young professional, a mom – and with family and most of my close friends who have joined me in many a summer trip.   

KALESA RIDE: Charity, me, Lea and Apple get friendly with 

the horse that would take us around Vigan.

        In this particular visit, I found out that the church is now called the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity. I think C was flattered.

      This time around, I joined my co-tourists in going to the topmost of the tower and enjoyed a breathtaking view of the entire city. Manong Tourist Guide pointed to me where San Vicente is – where my mother’s ancestral home is located and where we stayed during this trip – and Santa Catalina – my father’s ancestral home which we didn’t have time to visit. 

        He likewise gave us a quick background on this historic tower which is beside one of the oldest churches in the Ilocos region, and the many bells that are housed in it. Like there’s one for every milestone – from baptism to birthday to wedding and one used to warn or alert people.       

FIRST STOP in our kalesa tour is the Bell Tower in Bantay.

I have lost count on how many times I have posed here

but this is my first time to go up the topmost

of the tower and see a breathtaking view
of the city. Our tour guide informed us about 
the different bells used for the different milestones  in one's

life – from baptism to birthdays

to weddings and to alert the populace.

  

        Next stop was Baluarte, a zoo located on a hillside just a few minutes away from the plaza and owned by Ilocos Sur Governor Chavit Singson. This is actually his personal zoo housing his so-called pets – large tigers, camels and different species of deer, ostrich, ducks, parrots and snakes. There is also a butterfly sanctuary and the place could likewise pass for a giant garden of flowers and trees amid big boulders of brown and moss green.

       There is a small chapel towards the entrance and the welcoming committee is a bunch of colorful parrots perched on branches at the left side of the main gate. It used to be an uncaged tiger.

       The first time my family and I visited the place, it was Chavit’s popular pet tiger who was just a few steps past the entrance to greet you. There is a trainer beside him and one of his paws is tied to the trainer’s ankle. It was an exciting and a bit intimidating experience as we were face to face with the large cat, so meek and simply looking back at us with those big eyes. Not right now wherein he is in a cage – seemingly bored and pitiful.
 

  

ZOO & THEN SOME. Baluarte proved to be an interesting

place even if it was not my first time

to go – experiencing a great view of Vigan’s skies (top)

and enjoying both flora and fauna. This pink-colored

gumamela (above) was really beautiful; but the tiger

(lowermost) was a pitiful sight. There weren’t tears

In his eyes but he was lonely being caged. Towards

the main entrance is a chapel (below), where, once more,

we dropped by for thanksgiving prayers.

 

       Then it was time for lunch and I brought them to Hidden Garden.  This is a restaurant surrounded by lush greenery and a couple of gardens with colorful flowers and giant ferns and petite bonsais. It is landscaped so beautifully I actually want to live there! 

        My childhood friend and now a priest of the SVD (Society of the Divine Word), Fr. Gil Manalo, treated me and my family to this place a couple of years ago. He was assigned at the Divine Word College in Vigan for several years but is presently assigned in another Divine Word school in Urdaneta City. He also introduced us to the owners – Engr. Francis Flores and his wife Glo. They live inside the garden compound and their home was simply fabulous, including their toilet and bathroom!

HUNGRY GIRLS. Finally, lunch at Hidden Garden.

Topmost is the entrance to the restaurant; above

is the Lover’s Corner leading to more beautiful gardens.

Below shows us posing for a souvenir 
before checking out the menu.

      The garden restaurant offers genuine Ilocano food and I wanted my traveling friends to taste it. And how they loved it! We ordered not only bagnet but bagnet sisig as well and I introduced them to dinengdeng, a soupy dish of vegetables – stringbeans, eggplants, okra and patola with grilled fish and flavored with bagoong.

        After hanging out and going around the gardens and, of course, taking souvenir shots, we were ready for Calle Crisologo. 

BACK IN TIME. Just like the Bell Tower

in Bantay, I have lost count of how many times

I have posed and strolled down Calle Crisologo

and in all stages of my life … Still, it is

as if it is always my first time in every stroll …

            C says that she has just been seeing this beautiful cobblestone street in postcards and she’s happy to be actually walking on it. L feels the same and while A has been here before, she seems to be enjoying the street in a different level.

      We took a couple of pictures, we bought T-shirts and other knick-knacks. We simply enjoyed walking on this historic street and going back in time.

       Then we met up with Fr. Gil who treated us to the empanadahan at the Plaza Burgos. I just love this savory and crispy delicacy of grated green papaya and/or minced cabbage and shredded longganiza with one whole egg placed on top of the mixture before it is wrapped in home-made dough and deep-fried in scorching oil.  

VIGAN NIGHT. Outside Calle Crisologo,

we continue to explore Vigan under the stars

and savor the evening’s warm breeze. Took a shot

of Manang (above) frying our savory dinner of empanada

at the plaza, a treat of childhood friend,

Fr. Gil Manala of the SVD, who joins us and brings

                               us to the Divine Word College (below), where he used

to be assigned, just a few steps away

from the plaza. We likewise chanced upon  

a dance group (lowermost) preparing for a station ID

for TVigan, the city government’s

new information channel.

        Strolling down the town plaza and enjoying the warm Vigan breeze, we chanced upon a group of dancers practicing on the right side of the town plaza fronting the monument of Leona Florentino. We were informed that they were preparing a station ID for the launch of TVigan, the new information arm of the city government, and will air over Channel 9 of Vigan Satellite Cable TV and Eagle Vision. 

Exploring Pagudpud

      The following day, it was time to explore Pagudpud.

        We felt that the beach could wait and so we boarded our three-wheeler driven by a young man named Cris and wasted no time to discover the town.

        There were blue skies and during the trip, some drizzle and some strong wind accompanied us as we moved from one landmark to another. There were rock formations, caves and windmills, and breathtaking views of highways amid mountains. There was a long stretch of white sand and blue ocean with waves intensely rushing to the shore. 

PAGUDPUD PROBE. The Bantay Abot Cave

(topmost), where I found a heart-shaped rock; and

the Timmagtang Rock (above) … in both places,

the wind doesn’t just caress, it overwhelms as well.

The famous windmills (below) are a fantastic

sight and it actually mesmerized me, not to mention 

the sea beside it with its strong waves and 

white sand shore, it was simply refreshing … 

Lastly, what better way to cap a tour than a beautiful

sunset and I mean beautiful beyond words.

         The trip was arduous – sightseeing in a tricycle is not something I wouldn’t recommend even to the most adventurous! – but seeing nature at its best was simply priceless!

Missing Marcos

      Last on the itinerary was a visit to the city of Laoag. It was a Monday and the Marcos Museum in Batac was closed. We went to Paoay Church and a construction on its façade was ongoing.

        Tough luck.  

 

NEVER ON A MONDAY. The Marcos Museum is closed

and we made do with what’s outside for souvenir shots: (above)

among them, the antique door; the view from the garden

beside the two houses; and the marble signage. The Paoay Church

is under construction (below) but the gloriously white rows

of bougainvillea in the churchyard made up

for our disappointment. The church’s beautiful

aItar is intact and I had  another

chance to thank God for His blessings.

        If there’s any consolation for A, C and L, the mausoleum was open and they were able to visit the tomb of former President Marcos. I actually find the place really creepy and if I had a choice, I wouldn’t go in again – once is enough for me! – but I still accompanied them.

        I remember the first time  ... my daughters were still in grade school and Ghiselle said something like parang si Michael Jackson na wi-nax. (At that time, there was an exhibit of popular personalities in wax, among them MJ, in some mall, not sure now if it was Robinson’s Galeria or Megamall.) Marcos loyalists were swearing that this is his real body and was simply treated with preservatives or whatever … not a wax replica!

      My mom then advised her grandchildren not to make negative comments because we were around staunch Marcos loyalists.

      Anyway, A, C and L and I made do with taking shots of the museum’s entrance and façade. We also agreed that we will definitely come back …

Discovering Ilocano Culture

       With spare time, we went around the city of Laoag and came upon the Museo Ilocos Norte. It was my first time to go, too and it was an interesting lesson in Ilocano culture. I especially liked the old furniture and the antique pieces, including a statue of the Virgin Mary.

         On the overall, the old two-story museum reminded me so much of our ancestral home in Sta. Catalina. Most especially the kitchen, the living room, the stairs, the bubon or well. And the butaka, a comfortable lounging chair with its arms long enough to put your feet up. And the flat iron that, as a little girl, I would watch in awe as the charcoal turned into yellow and glowing ember.

        Well, it was really a stroll back down memory lane and it brought back so many memories, making me miss my Lelong and Lelang …

   

 

AN ILOCANO HOUSE. Museo Ilocos Norte was

a welcome discovery. It was as if I was a little

girl once more and living in my paternal grandparents’

ancestral home in Sta. Catalina. The façade (topmost) with

its capiz windows and the living room with its antique furniture,

including a butaka (above) reminded me so much of that

home where I stayed from age three to 10. And the well,

I’m sure even my friends who have come with me

during summer have fond memories of taking a bath here. 

The flat iron and a statue of Mama Mary (below) beside

a big mirror likewise brought back childhood memories.

And me trying out the harp, I also have the same photo

taken at the Crisologo Museum in Vigan several summers ago. 

       

The Holy Week That Was

      We started the family’s Holy Week vacation this year – first time without my mom – in Pangasinan with the traditional Visita Iglesia.

        I only know one church in the said province and that is the Shrine of Our Lady of Manaoag, a church we visit every now and then for special occasions or simply as a thanksgiving pilgrimage done by the family.

        Now I have visited several and they are all beautiful churches with that Old World charm. I especially like the stained glass as well as capiz in their windows and ceilings, the soaring bell towers for some and the charming angels holding holy water fonts. Of course, there’s that overall ambience, making one feel that God is indeed present.

        These churches include the Our Lady of the Anunciation, St. John the Evangelist and Santuario de San Juan in Dagupan City; Sts. Peter & Paul in Calasiao, where the famous puto is made; Holy Family in Sta. Barbara; Santo Tomas de Aquino in Mangaldan; and St. Hyacinth in San Jacinto.

OUR LADY & ST. JOHN. (From the top) The Our Lady

of the Anunciation and its altar depicting

the Anunciation of the Virgin Mary;

St. John the Evangelist Cathedral with its unique

altar and a giant ceiling fan ... grandson Marcus

is simply delighted upon seeing it (a closer look

reveals its amusing brand name); and (below) 

Santuario de San Juan in whose golden 

altar my daughter Ghiselle

and I pose. All churches are in Dagupan City.

CHURCH GALORE. The rest of the churches

we visited include (below, from the top) Sts. Peter & Paul Cathedral 
in Bolinao; the Holy Family Parish Church in Santa Barbara, whose 
chandeliers looked fabulous; St. Thomas Aquinas Parish in Mangaldan; 
and St. Hyacinth Church in San Jacinto.

   

  
        We capped the seven-church Visita Iglesia with one more church visit – at the Shrine of the Our Lady of Manaoag. This time, I was able to see the beauty of the Manaoag shrine and I was able to get a good shot of it. Previous visits have people filling the church to the rafters. 

OUR FAVORITE LADY. As if the seven churches

weren’t enough, we capped our Stations of the Cross

tour at the Shrine of Our Lady of Manaoag. Might

as well since we were in the neighborhood. This

time, I was able to get a good shot of the church, complete

with its façade and bell tower.

        This year’s Good Friday also had lots of people but pedestrian traffic was re-routed, somewhat putting some order and easy movement. 

        In this church tour, I learned that Romana’s, that special brand of peanut brittle like no other, is actually located here. Not in Baguio or am I the only one who’s finding it out now?

        It has a store and a canteen – this is where we had our lunch – located near the church in Mangaldan and its main store is the ancestral home of Romana herself – also in Mangaldan – where she first made that sweet and chewy concoction in the 1950s.  

  

LUNCH FINALLY. We take a break from the church

tour for some nourishment at Romana’s canteen beside

the Mangaldan church. In observance of the Holy Week,

we had fish and veggies (above). Then we dropped by

the store next door to buy some peanut brittle

and other pasalubong. That's the young Romana 

(below) in a framed photo on the canteen's wall.

  
Sand, Sea & Sunset

        Done with our spiritual duty, it was time to formally cleanse and rejuvenate our tired bodies. Our next destination was Bolinao – specifically Solomon’s Paradise – to bathe in the ocean and simply relax.

      Actually, upon arrival in Dagupan City, we already washed away our travel-weary bodies in Tondaligan Beach, a walking distance from where my brother-in-law stays. We arrived just a few minutes before sunset and it was   an amazing welcome for us.

         Bolinao is one big stretch of white sandy beach surrounded by greenery and terrains beautifully contoured by nature. Standing in the background along the coastline is a lighthouse that adds some sense of history to the place.

THE BEAUTY OF BOLINAO BEACH.

(Above/Below) The waves are intense as they playfully

rush to the shore to caress, slap and slam our bodies.

Feels like a combination of soft and hard massage.

(Lowermost) The lighthouse in the background lends

some sense of history to the overall scenery.

 

         The beach was a refreshing retreat. Just like my hometown in Sta. Catalina, it is off China Sea, but specifically for this province, it is off South China Sea.

        Aside from the invigorating waters, we also explored a couple of caves. We marveled at the breathtaking view of the blue sea from the rock formations. We savored the feel of the sand on our feet. We lied down on the rough and beautifully colored – it’s lilac! – seaweeds as if rubbing our bodies to relaxation.

BONDING MOMENTS. (Above) Enjoying the lilac-carpeted

waters of Solomon’s Paradise with daughter Ghiselle;

and exploring the small caves with grandson Marcus,

who doesn’t want to be disturbed in playing in the beach 

for a photo op with me. (Below) And the amazing sunset, 

a fitting end to a wonderful summer.

 

        And, of course, the sunset is always awesome wherever it happens. It was a fitting end to a memorable summer and unforgettable moments with family. No work, no deadlines, no household chores.

      If only I could declare summer forever!